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February marks Black History Month in most parts of the diaspora (except in the UK, where it is celebrated in October). For us, the descendants of African peoples, this month-long observance is a time to honour the remarkable achievements and resilience of Black individuals throughout history; those who dared (and still dare) to live, dream and create despite more than five centuries of systemic adversity.

In this inaugural edition of "SIGNS OF THE TOMES," we present five contemporary coffee table books that joyfully and unapologetically encapsulate the richness of the Black experience. Authored by Black writers, or centred on Black narratives, these selections are not only visually stunning but also serve as vital records of Black lives and contributions to polity and culture, the arts, sports, travel and fashion.

1. The Most Iconic

Sapeurs: The Gentlemen of Bacongo by Daniele Tamagni

This groundbreaking work introduced the "African coffee table book genre" as we know it today. Via the world of the vibrant and audacious Sapeurs—Congolese dandies known for their impeccable style, it challenged prevailing narratives at the time by showcasing a contemporary, CLOTHED Africa. By ushering Black faces on coffee tables around the world, with the same heft and presence as the (still) reigning king of coffee tables, Tom Ford, The Gentlemen of Bacongo quickly sold out. After the death of its author a few years later, it was only found in secondary markets for many years. However, the iconic tome, featuring the African dandy (Sapeur in French) in a hot pink suit and matching bowler, is back in print through its original publishers, Trolley Books.

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2. The Most Re-defining

Afrosurf by Mami Wata

I'm sure you’ve heard at least one of the following sayings: Black people can't swim, we don't ski, and we definitely don't skydive or bungee jump! Well, it's true for most: Many of us refuse to, or are deathly afraid of participating in these kinds of dare-devil activities. Surf was also on my non-exhaustive list of "cultural don'ts" until a few years ago when I saw a curious Kickstarter campaign for an art book entitled AFROSURF. Edited by Mami Wata, a Cape Town surf company, "Afrosurf" is the first book to comprehensively document and celebrate surfing and related street culture in Africa. Initially appearing in 2021, the title seeks to redefine what we hold true about ourselves, our limitations, and the "extreme" leisures of our kinfolks across the globe.

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3. The Most Fashionable

Supreme Models: Iconic Black Women Who Revolutionized Fashion by Marcellas Reynolds

My interest in fashion - like most - began with models. In the early 2000s, during Jamaica's successful model wave, I would pore over the rare newspaper clippings and Models.com articles to keep abreast of the local muses who'd gone on to become international stars: Carla Campbell, Nadine Willis, Jaunel McKenzie, Reshima Hemmings, Sunna Gottshalk, Nakiesha Robinson, Canise Jackson, Jeneil Williams....to name a few. This led me to discover the other top girls of the moment, like Kinee Diouf, Mia Aminata, Sessilee Lopez, Ajak Deng, Tia Shipman, Chanel Iman....and the list goes on. Reynolds' book is an ode to that magical period - and the watershed era before. Celebrating over 70 Black models from the past seven decades, the anthology highlights their groundbreaking contributions to the fashion industry and is filled with stunning visuals and personal narratives. A must-have for all fashion enthusiasts!

Subscribe now

4. The Most “Must-Have”

Rihanna by Rihanna

So far, I've avoided monographs (i.e., books devoted to a single artist or their body of work) because they are not usually varied or mainstream enough for a general audience. But I would be remiss if I didn't mention Rihanna's 2019 release by Phaidon. A visual autobiography, this 500-page tome offers an intimate look into the life and career of the Barbadian superstar. Featuring personal photographs and unique design elements such as designer bookstands, cloth-bound covers, and pull-out posters, “Rihanna” - the book - is both a collector's item and a testament to Rihanna's multifaceted influence. A hit among her millions of millennial and Gen-Z fans upon its release, it's essentially a work of art!

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5. The Most Wanderlust

Zanzibar by Aline Coquelle

French photographer Aline Coquelle presents a love letter to the Zanzibar archipelago, capturing its breathtaking landscapes and vibrant culture. Released in 2020, “Zanzibar” immerses readers in the island's beauty and heritage by mimicking the clear blue waters of the Indian Ocean, which have made the region famous and a much-loved tourist destination, on its cover. In a series of intimate portraits of an indigenous community bursting with life, Coquelle - through her lens - preserves and celebrates life beyond paradise.

Subscribe now

Bonus: The Most Unexpected

Jamaica Vibes by Lisa Lovatt-Smith and Novia McDonald Whyte

If there was any doubt about the coolest island in the Caribbean, it's settled: "Jamaica Vibes" shines a spotlight on the renowned tropical island - the eternal home of Reggae, Bond, and “irie”. Released in the fall of 2023, it includes a foreword by Chris Blackwell, founder of Island Records, offering readers a visual feast of Jamaica's landscapes and lifestyles.

Incorporating these titles into your collection will not only enhance your decor but honour the diverse narratives that exist within the Black community. Each book serves as a testament and celebration of Black excellence, inviting reflection and conversation. And given their sheer size and design, they are guaranteed to please even the most discerning book collector.

Selection: Sapeurs: The Gentlemen of Bacongo by Daniele Tamagni (Trolley Books); Afrosurf by Mami Wata (Mami Wata); Supreme Models: Iconic Black Women Who Revolutionized Fashion by Marcellas Reynolds (Abrams Books); Rihanna by Rihanna (Phaidon); Zanzibar by Aline Coquelle (Assouline); Jamaica Vibes by Lisa Lovatt-Smith and Novia McDonald Whyte (Assouline).

16/02/2025

Signs of the Tomes is a quarterly column and guide to the most captivating coffee-table books, tomes, and monographs. From breathtaking photography and bold design, to deep dives into art, culture, and history, these are the books that are meant to be seen, held, and savoured.

Share Son of the Antillean Soil

February marks Black History Month in most parts of the diaspora (except in the UK, where it is celebrated in October). For us, the descendants of African peoples, this month-long observance is a time to honour the remarkable achievements and resilience of Black individuals throughout history; those who dared (and still dare) to live, dream and create despite more than five centuries of systemic adversity.

In this inaugural edition of "SIGNS OF THE TOMES," we present five contemporary coffee table books that joyfully and unapologetically encapsulate the richness of the Black experience. Authored by Black writers, or centred on Black narratives, these selections are not only visually stunning but also serve as vital records of Black lives and contributions to polity and culture, the arts, sports, travel and fashion.

1. The Most Iconic

Sapeurs: The Gentlemen of Bacongo by Daniele Tamagni

This groundbreaking work introduced the "African coffee table book genre" as we know it today. Via the world of the vibrant and audacious Sapeurs—Congolese dandies known for their impeccable style, it challenged prevailing narratives at the time by showcasing a contemporary, CLOTHED Africa. By ushering Black faces on coffee tables around the world, with the same heft and presence as the (still) reigning king of coffee tables, Tom Ford, The Gentlemen of Bacongo quickly sold out. After the death of its author a few years later, it was only found in secondary markets for many years. However, the iconic tome, featuring the African dandy (Sapeur in French) in a hot pink suit and matching bowler, is back in print through its original publishers, Trolley Books.

Share

2. The Most Re-defining

Afrosurf by Mami Wata

I'm sure you’ve heard at least one of the following sayings: Black people can't swim, we don't ski, and we definitely don't skydive or bungee jump! Well, it's true for most: Many of us refuse to, or are deathly afraid of participating in these kinds of dare-devil activities. Surf was also on my non-exhaustive list of "cultural don'ts" until a few years ago when I saw a curious Kickstarter campaign for an art book entitled AFROSURF. Edited by Mami Wata, a Cape Town surf company, "Afrosurf" is the first book to comprehensively document and celebrate surfing and related street culture in Africa. Initially appearing in 2021, the title seeks to redefine what we hold true about ourselves, our limitations, and the "extreme" leisures of our kinfolks across the globe.

Subscribe now

3. The Most Fashionable

Supreme Models: Iconic Black Women Who Revolutionized Fashion by Marcellas Reynolds

My interest in fashion - like most - began with models. In the early 2000s, during Jamaica's successful model wave, I would pore over the rare newspaper clippings and Models.com articles to keep abreast of the local muses who'd gone on to become international stars: Carla Campbell, Nadine Willis, Jaunel McKenzie, Reshima Hemmings, Sunna Gottshalk, Nakiesha Robinson, Canise Jackson, Jeneil Williams....to name a few. This led me to discover the other top girls of the moment, like Kinee Diouf, Mia Aminata, Sessilee Lopez, Ajak Deng, Tia Shipman, Chanel Iman....and the list goes on. Reynolds' book is an ode to that magical period - and the watershed era before. Celebrating over 70 Black models from the past seven decades, the anthology highlights their groundbreaking contributions to the fashion industry and is filled with stunning visuals and personal narratives. A must-have for all fashion enthusiasts!

Subscribe now

4. The Most “Must-Have”

Rihanna by Rihanna

So far, I've avoided monographs (i.e., books devoted to a single artist or their body of work) because they are not usually varied or mainstream enough for a general audience. But I would be remiss if I didn't mention Rihanna's 2019 release by Phaidon. A visual autobiography, this 500-page tome offers an intimate look into the life and career of the Barbadian superstar. Featuring personal photographs and unique design elements such as designer bookstands, cloth-bound covers, and pull-out posters, “Rihanna” - the book - is both a collector's item and a testament to Rihanna's multifaceted influence. A hit among her millions of millennial and Gen-Z fans upon its release, it's essentially a work of art!

Share

5. The Most Wanderlust

Zanzibar by Aline Coquelle

French photographer Aline Coquelle presents a love letter to the Zanzibar archipelago, capturing its breathtaking landscapes and vibrant culture. Released in 2020, “Zanzibar” immerses readers in the island's beauty and heritage by mimicking the clear blue waters of the Indian Ocean, which have made the region famous and a much-loved tourist destination, on its cover. In a series of intimate portraits of an indigenous community bursting with life, Coquelle - through her lens - preserves and celebrates life beyond paradise.

Subscribe now

Bonus: The Most Unexpected

Jamaica Vibes by Lisa Lovatt-Smith and Novia McDonald Whyte

If there was any doubt about the coolest island in the Caribbean, it's settled: "Jamaica Vibes" shines a spotlight on the renowned tropical island - the eternal home of Reggae, Bond, and “irie”. Released in the fall of 2023, it includes a foreword by Chris Blackwell, founder of Island Records, offering readers a visual feast of Jamaica's landscapes and lifestyles.

Incorporating these titles into your collection will not only enhance your decor but honour the diverse narratives that exist within the Black community. Each book serves as a testament and celebration of Black excellence, inviting reflection and conversation. And given their sheer size and design, they are guaranteed to please even the most discerning book collector.

Selection: Sapeurs: The Gentlemen of Bacongo by Daniele Tamagni (Trolley Books); Afrosurf by Mami Wata (Mami Wata); Supreme Models: Iconic Black Women Who Revolutionized Fashion by Marcellas Reynolds (Abrams Books); Rihanna by Rihanna (Phaidon); Zanzibar by Aline Coquelle (Assouline); Jamaica Vibes by Lisa Lovatt-Smith and Novia McDonald Whyte (Assouline).

16/02/2025

Signs of the Tomes is a quarterly column and guide to the most captivating coffee-table books, tomes, and monographs. From breathtaking photography and bold design, to deep dives into art, culture, and history, these are the books that are meant to be seen, held, and savoured.

I found myself asking this question after listening to Teyana Taylor’s latest release, K.T.S.E. It’s a solid album, and perhaps the revelation of the year in terms of a good R&B album. It possesses all the ingredients of  a classic: novelty and familiarity, grit and vulnerability, plus a more than competent voice in the form of Taylor.

It also makes shrewd use of some forgotten classics. But I fear in the glut of all this other stuff - Kanyé, bigger A&R budgets, short attention spans and no visuals (plus her supposed displeasure with the released project) the album may not get the support - or the longevity - it deserves.

Initially, I criticized the album's paucity, its lack of 'completeness' and that all-important crossover or mainstream song. But it’s been three days now of me listening to the album, non-stop; each time discovering a new melody, or being enraptured anew by Taylor’s husky, velvety tone.

With acts like Sza, Ella Mai and H.E.R already sitting pretty atop the charts, it’s safe to say that female-driven R&B is in safe hands. So why should we care about K.T.S.E. or Taylor? Because of the slick-talking, risk-taking, polymath that she is. And the fact that she - unlike the others - is the superior vocal talent.

No Manners (Track 1)

The truncated No Manners, is perhaps the best example of what many people decry about K.T.S.E. Yet it’s also what’s genius about it! At only ninety-nine seconds long, it’s more like an interlude - an overture in this case. Nevertheless, the production and Taylor’s vocal performance are so sterling that you forgive its lack of a verse, or fade-out.

A mounting, hip-rock opera, it is brash and unapologetic - with a message somewhat reminiscent of Taylor’s first hit, Google Me. Except that here, Taylor isn’t a mollycoddled 16-year-old, rapping over bland, vain lyrics. She’s (now) 27, grown, married and a mother; singing about more mature themes, like being unbothered by her haters, independent willfulness, and loving up on her man, husband Iman Shumpert, who she’s quick to extol in the Petunia-like lyrics, “My hubby, my hubby so handsome!”

Gonna Love Me (Track 2)

Gonna Love Me, is my personal favourite. A classic, soul record, Taylor and team took inspiration from a 1970 Delfonics song, The Love I Gave To You.

Like Usher before her on Throwback (a Dionne Warwick sample), or Moby’s One Of These Mornings, Taylor and Co. magnificently revive a dusty, obscure track for a whole new generation. Taking cues from the heartfelt original, her feathery vocals reveal a sense and sensibility older than her natural 27 years. Redefining the R&B torch song, she quavers about acknowledgement and penitence, and about being utterly in love despite the struggles of maintaining a relationship.

Issues/Hold On (Track 3)

Arguably the second best track from the album, Issues/Hold On is a soul-wop record over faint reggae bursts. Here, Taylor’s smoky timbre recalls the raw ingenue of Jazmine Sullivan and the fervent faithfulness of Lauryn Hill. In fact, Issues/Hold On could’ve been a hit collab by these two contemporaries. But what makes this song entirely Teyana is her rapid talking swagger, as well as some seemingly real-life references to ‘daddy issues’ and past failed relationships.

“And the fact that she - unlike the others - is the superior vocal talent.”

3Way (Track 5)

3Way isn’t a song for the priggish, or the sexually unadventurous. On the risqué track, Taylor details about participating in - and maybe even initiating - a threesome with her husband and another woman because she knows it’s something he wants to do. Personal biases aside, the song is sexy AF. And if you thought this was a Brandy Norwood track, Taylor soon removes all doubt by proffering a few libertine lyrics like, ‘Time to get up in them ribs tonight,’ or ‘Two heads are better than one’, which seems to be innuendo for oral sex.

Never Would Have Made It (Track 7)

Perhaps the most complete (production-wise) of the eight, Never Would Have Made It reinterprets the Marvin Sapp gospel hit of the same name. Hit records are routinely ballads for a reason. They are soaring, honest - but most important, cathartic. In adding an 80’s dance beat to the sombre original, Taylor’s takes the listener on a journey from earnest gratitude to superabundant joy.

Keep That Same Energy - Final Thoughts

Love, maturity, willfulness and reflectiveness are the central themes on K.T.S.E. Sure, a few of Taylor’s contemporaries like Brandy, Alicia Keys, Jazmine Sullivan and Lauryn Hill make spectral appearances on the 8-track oeuvre by way of their comparable tones, riffs and runs, yet this doesn’t make the album any less special - or less Teyana’s. If anything, it shows her as a woman of her era - influenced no doubt by those before her but whose ears are attuned to the streets (Rose in Harlem, Track 6). Plus she has the temerity and raw grit to go where her predecessors refused sonically (Hurry, Track 4) or lyrically (WTP, Track 8).

Taylor is a cool girl (from her voice to her tomboy swag), she knows her lane and she’s faithful to it. And while I do believe that some songs (like Gonna Love Me) could have profitted from her being more unhinged, her glorious runs and honeyed texture make up for any want for effusiveness. In fact, much of what is dismissed as faults on K.T.S.E., is essentially what makes it unique - like the lack of fade-outs, which melts the tracks into each other like scenes in a film or the days in our lives.

The album winds up after just 22 minutes. And that's fine. For in all honesty, who has the attention span for 4-minute songs on 15-track albums anymore?

13/07/2018

ECHO* is an irregularly occurring series offering commentary and insight on noteworthy, sometimes obscure, music.